First Gold medal of All-Russian Exhibition Center was awarded in September 2001 to a Director of software engineers of CAD System "GRAZIA" Vitaly Yeshchenko for a developing a new analytic way in automation of projecting.

History of question and task definition.

1. Graphical method of modelling couldn’t provide interdependence between details. For example, in case changing armhole it’s necessary to change sleeve’s armhole and all other mating and derived pieces.

   Graphical methods of modelling allow to get result – pieces but don’t have process of projecting.

2. Graphical Grading - creation pieces of model in necessary sizes and heights using gradation – stretching pieces from base size by ordering rate of stretching in constructive points to get pieces in others sizes and heights. The more further grading size from base one the more worse quality of its’ pieces.
3. Gradation is useless for creating model’s pieces for individual body dimensions.
4. In case of changing constructive additions in model, material properties and design decisions it’s necessary to recreate almost all pieces in Base and Model construction.

The idea of task solving. Graphical Grading - creation pieces of model in necessary sizes and heights using gradation – stretching pieces from base size by ordering rate of stretching in constructive points to get pieces in others sizes and heights. The more further grading size from base one the more worse quality of its’ pieces.

The solving of problem. The development of specialized interface that allows writing process of construction with operators to create any clothes in base size by any method of designing. The system executes operators and simultaneously makes graphical construction. Designer can order interdependence between pieces, write down conditional logical situation, use separated constructions as modules, realizes modular and intellectual processes. The software must automatically solve all technical routine works.

Pieces Duplication by sizes and height is the most important task of pattern design. CAD System GRAZIA during some minutes solve this task in automate mode by repeating execution of algorithm with corresponding body dimension – automatically reconstruct model in every size and height with corresponding values of body dimension. This way is more quickly and more precisely than gradation. In every size-height system construct model and save form of pieces. The constructional differences in various sizes is solving with conditional operator "If …, then …, else…".

In CAD System GRAZIA the task of reconstruction model for individual figure is solving during a minute by repeating construction process for ordered model with individual body dimensions accounting bearing.

Also very important task of pattern design is alteration construction in case of changing properties of material, fashion trend or elimination of fit defects. This task CAD System GRAZIA solve almost in automatic mode by reconstruction model with new parameters.

The table of control measurements and specification of pieces are formed automatically.

Second Gold medal was awarded in March 2002 to a Chief of Moscow center of High computer technologies "GRAZIA" candidate of technical science, docent of Moscow State University of Service Elena Bulatova for providing interdependence between model draught and it’s construction, possibility to see how model would be in any size and height, before the sewing, widening range of harmonious perception of model with changing of body dimensions, parameters, proportions and line shapes.

History of question and task definition. Any ready-made garment is a result of jointly work of Designer, Pattern designer and Technologist. It’s necessary to create interface for its effective cooperation.

Nowadays CAD System "GRAZIA" realize scheme of cooperation of Designer and Pattern designer at the base of modular construction. Designer draw the draught of model, Constructor makes styling design, load needed modules and system create pieces.

Constructor may take from draught only idea but it would be good to take proportions, length and shapes of some lines. Its request to have technical draught in natural size.

Constructor may take from draught only idea but it would be good to take proportions, length and shapes of some lines. Its request to have technical draught in natural size.

The idea of task solving. Pieces of model must be quickly and precisely created in all sizes and heights. Its necessary to estimate harmonious of model in every size and to make changes to improve model.

The solving of problem. In CAD System GRAZIA it was created modules of construction of woman’s figure by body dimensions (geometric models of figure). The construction is made by three projections: front, aside, from behind. Using these modules the geometric models figure may be reconstruct for all sizes by corresponding body dimension.

The draught of the clothes is constructing on the figure using body dimensions and lines: chest line, hipline, waistline, points of shoulders, center of chest etc.

Construction of clothes is creating using the same body dimension: hips circle, length of sleeve, balance characteristics etc.

The process of construction is writing down as algorithm of operators so there is an interdependence between the draught and construction of clothes.

During algorithm execution with values of body dimensions for necessary sizes and heights we get draught and construction for needed range of sizes.

It allows seeing how model would be in any size and height, before the sewing. It’s possible to change some parameters, body dimensions, proportions and line shapes to achieve harmonious perception of model.

For example it’s possible to correct line of lapel at the draught and system automatically correct this lapel line in the construction at all mating and derived pieces in all sizes.

Third Gold medal was awarded in September 2002 to a Chief technologist of CAD System "GRAZIA" Alexander Veprik for developing interconnection between all subsystems of software.

History of question and task definition. In the beginning of XX century Henry Ford suggest using idea of production line (conveyor) in motor-car construction.

All CAD Systems have some subsystems. Data from one subsystem pass in another subsystems. The solving of this task greatly influence on a performance of whole system.

The idea of task solving. Its necessary to provide interconnection between all subsystems.

The solving of problem. Interconnection between subsystems is providing using formulas and parameters.

For example, The line of lapel is a decorative line and created by function "Graphical correction". This line have name. The shape of this line pass in the pieces.

The length of this line used in calculation of execution time of technological treatment and for calculation expenses of sewing. These indexes are included in production costs and used for calculation prime cost and selling price.

For example, in case of changing lapel line and its length it would be automatically changed shape of pieces, markers, time of technological treatment, expenses of sewing, prime cost and selling price.

Fourth Gold Medal was awarded in March 2003 to a Chief constructor of CAD System "GRAZIA" Vladimir Zabelin for developing software to realize modular projecting, cycling and intellectual processes.

History of question and task definition. There were many wishes to make a lot of different sleeves, collars, silhouettes, pockets, base constructions and others and used them when it’s needed with changing of their parameters.

The idea of task solving. To solve this problem it’s necessary to give possibility to save as module any logically finished construction process. Using operator "If …, then …, else …" system can load necessary module that meet ordered conditions.

The solving of problem. It was developed tools to save modules. Modules has several parameters. For example, module of collar band construction has parameters: height of band and length of neck orifice line. In case of loading module its possible to quickly changed corresponding parameters and make a lot of different collars for any model.

Also module can be loaded from another module. It gives ability to speed up time of model construction.

Operator "If …, then …, else …" allows to set condition of loading modules and system can load necessary module that meet ordered conditions. Construction processes in different sizes of one model can go by various ways to achieve needed requests.

Fifth Gold medal was awarded in March 2004 to a Head of scientific production association "GRAZIA", candidate of physical-mathematical science Vitaly Yeshchenko for developing software and way of creating harmonious models at nontype figures.

History of question and task definition.In publications the developers of software for clothes constructions in three-dimensional space describe processes in next sequence: measuring individual body dimensions, getting figure in 3D, ordering addition to fit, getting image of model on the mannequin. If it’s meeting our requests, system make model dissection and getting peaces of clothes.

The idea of task solving.

The developers of CAD System "GRAZIA" analysis some questions.

Construction of 3D image of model and dissections don’t take into account properties of material.

The developers of 3D projection clothes don’t take into account features of individual projection.

If the model remake for bent or humpbacked figure, they create bent mannequin, ordering additions on fit and getting bent model and dissection on pieces. In this way they accentuate bent figure of customer!

But designer have to hide nontype features of figure and clothes (bent, humpback).

The idea of task solving. The developers of CAD System "GRAZIA" suggest next way of reconstructed model for individual figure. Project nontype figure. Project a type figure that is more nearest to ordered nontype figure. Create harmonious individual figure by some approaching nontype figure to a type figure. This way allows hiding disadvantages of individual figure.

The solving of problem. There were developed modules of a nontype figure construction, the nearest type figure and harmonious figure. It selected by different colors at the draught. There were developed tools of aberrances measuring and analysis.

This tools is developed in CAD System "GRAZIA" with operator "If …, then …, else …".

Sixth Gold medal was awarded in March 2005 to a candidate of technical science, docent of Ivanovo State Textile Academy Olga Surikova for developing and realization different kinds of details’ corner cuts design, execution intellectual processes of projecting ready-made garment.

History of question and task definition.

1. The projection of detail’s corner cuts is a jointly work of Pattern Designer and Technologist. Pattern designer form corner cuts when project addition on seam and form external contour line. This work request to know technology sequence of production accounting equipment and kind of treatment. The accuracy of execution these operations provide technological and quality clothes. There are 5-6 standard kinds of corner cuts.
2. There were many wishes that system control matting of details by corner cuts and automatically made necessary correction.

The idea of task solving.

1. It’s necessary to develop several new original ways of forming corner cuts to provide clothes manufacturability and quality.
2. This work request describing in details process of projecting corner cuts, mating of sections and checking mechanism.

The solving of problem. Surikova Olga suggest 12 new original method of corner cuts designing that allows to improve manufacturability and quality of products and patented corresponding modules of it execution in GRAZIA CAD. The designing of corner cuts is executed automatically in every size with realizing of control mechanism. Using this research today GRAZIA CAD involve 23 automatically ways of corner cuts designing. Pattern designer to form addition on seam for piece just need to select detail’s corner and choose a suitable kind of corner cut design. System form piece with addition on seam automatically.

Operator "If …"open unlimited possibilities to pastern designer. For example, its very important to provide needed fit of clothes on the figure. So during designing of junction "armhole – sleeve rounding" system calculates value of fit and value of defect.

If fit defect is in permissible bounds the process of construction will go on.

If fit defect is out of permissible bounds then the mechanism of correction will go on. For example, correction mechanism decreases width of sleeve and decreases height of sleeve. Then the sleeve is automatically reconstructing with new parameters of sleeve’s width and height. The fit defect is calculating again. If fit defect is in permissible bounds the process of construction will go on. If fit defect is out of permissible bounds then the mechanism of correction automatically will go on. This correction process would be executed till fit defect will stand in permissible bounds.

System not just executes operators and also become an intellectual assistant to pattern designer.

Seventh Gold medal was awarded in September 2005 to a Chief designer of North Caucasian Center of High Computer technology "GRAZIA", head of "VITIAZ" Ltd. Vitaly Svetikov for developing new technology of automate projecting pieces of model for body dimensions of different nation typology – Europeans, Asiatic, Italians, Germans etc.

History of question and task definition. During a business discussion Chinese manufacturer said that his fabric produce 5 thousand of coats a day. Clothes are exported in France, Canada, USA, Aisia etc. Figures of every population is rather differ. So one model have a pack of pieces for every population. So pieces for every typology must project separate pattern designer. It would be effective if system automatically reconstruct pieces for every typology of population.

The idea of task solving. The process of pieces construction for model is written in analytical form. Body dimensions that are used in algorithm are stored in corresponding table. The construction of pieces for another sizes is executing as result of reconstruction algorithm with needed values of body dimensions from designated table. Its necessary to create a new table with body dimension of needed population typology to get pieces of model for a new population typology.

The solving of problem. The methodic of forming new tables of body dimension for new population typology was developed. The new technology of automate algorithm reconstruction with body dimension of another population typology was included in GRAZIA CAD.

Eighth Gold medal was awarded in March 2006 to a leading expert CAD System "GRAZIA" Vitaly Krizhenko for a developing interrelated software solving task in Storing Calculation, Planning, Preproduction management and Operation of business processes.

History of question and task definition. In 2001 the director of a large fabric was confronted with difficulties in planning because the fabric was produce above 1600 different models of man lounge suits.

The direction couldn’t in a short time receive information: what models are in a good demand, what is a volume of demand, what models and what quantity better to include in production plan in further periods.

The idea of task solving. The software must automate not only preproduction processes and also processes of account, planning and management . Its very important to provide interconnection between all work stages.

The solving of problem. Its necessary to develop software that would be automate processes of account, planning and management and would be interrelated with preproduction system.

A new software must automate next stages.

• The account of primary and auxiliary materials, accessories.
• The forming of manufacturing plan for models in sizes and heights. The forming of Lay-up task.
• Calculation of main production expenses, calculation of prime cost.
• The estimation of requirements in materials Store of finished goods.
• The account of production dynamics and payments.
• The determination of production and sales volumes by any model for any period.
• The analysis of production and business activity.
• The generation of optimum products output plans.

Ninth Gold medal was awarded in September 2006 to a leading Pattern designer of Kharkov Center of Hight Computer Technologies Projecting of clothes "GRAZIA" Anna Moskavtsova for developing methodic and effective facilities of education ways in GRAZIA CAD.

History of question and task definition. The education of specialist from enterprises and from educational institutions can be proceed at the working places or in one of the GRAZIA centers. Each of these variants has its advantages and disadvantages.

The main advantage of education in GRAZIA center are:

• a lot of specialized documentation about methods of designing;
• above 700 different use-proven models;
• consultations of expert about automation of any manufacturing stage;
• creative conditions and absence of distraction factors;

The idea of task solving. Its necessary to improve distance learning to GRAZIA CAD.

The solving of problem. Anna Moskavtsova develop methodic that consist cumulative experience and contemplate sequence of common actions of specialist.

This methodic is realized as manual for self-tuition.

This methodic allow to decrease terms and mark up efficiency of education. Manual for self-tuition allow simplifying distance learning GRAZIA CAD.

Especially this methodic is effective at beginning stages in GRAZIA CAD for creative students and designers-individualist whose desire to master GRAZIA CAD and use it for projection of clothes pieces. Nowadays GRAZIA CAD may be installed by internet and users can familiarize with system by manual for self-tuition.

Tenth Gold medal was awarded in March 2007 to a leading Pattern designer of Moscow Center of Hight Computer Technologies Projecting of clothes "GRAZIA" Aida Salihova for realization of a new way of organizing intellectual cyclic processes and developing of Knowledge Base of projecting clothes.

History of question and task definition. Pattern designer often constructs new models that differ from existent models by form of collar, relieves lines, pockets etc. This work need a lot of changing. The labor content of this work greatly depend from CAD possibilities.

CAD systems that use graphical ways of projection and modelling clothes store information about model pieces as array of points coordinates that identify geometrical form of pieces, location of central and marking lines, increment values in constructive points for gradation by sizes and heights. This information content only results of designer’s work. But it doesn’t content data about projecting process.

To make changes or create new model specialist has to make changes in all mating, derived and auxiliary pieces.

In graphical CAD systems this process very labor-intensive.

CAD System GRAZIA realized high computer technique that automates preproduction projecting. The task of alteration model is quickly and comfortably solving on a new high level. Information about model pieces is stored as algorithm of projection, that content information about sequence of designer’s actions. During execution of algorithm system makes calculations and graphical constructions, forms information about all pieces for necessary range of sizes and heights.

When designer changes one piece in base size system automatically make changes in all mating, derived and auxiliary pieces in all needed sizes and height.

Operator "If" allows to written down conditions and branch processes that must be executed in case of meeting ordered conditions. The checking process of meeting conditions and choice of necessary way of construction is realized automatically during execution of the algorithm.

The idea of task solving. Its needed to written down as algorithm the process of projecting model’s family. System automatically forms sequence of construction for concrete conditions.

The solving of problem. It was suggested a new technology of projecting shoulder and belt clothes. The knowledge base is consist of algorithm that include construction of model’s family. Algorithm has sequence of construction action for main model in base size, conditions of projection for main model and model’s family, material parameters. To create concrete model its enough to order properties of model and execute algorithm with new parameters.

So specialist has possibilities to structure, write down, store and effectively use experience and organize knowledge base.

Medal "For progress in scientific and technical creativity" was awarded in September 2006 to a Director of software engineers of CAD System "GRAZIA" Vitaly Yeshchenko for developing and implementation of high computer technology of comprehensive automation of the processes of pattern design and workflow preparation for production of ready-made garment "GRAZIA"

History of question and task definition. CAD systems were developed in garment industry to automate main processes of workflow preparation – designing, markers making, cut preparation. But entertainment also has managerial activity – account of material resources, Planning and operation of business.

Foreign software that automate managerial processes don’t meet requirements of domestic fabrics. Only "SAPRLEGPROM" and "GRAZIA" CAD give consideration to automation of these processes.

ПUsers of another CAD systems use programs "1C: Store", "1C:Manufacture", "1C:Trade", "1C:Bookkeeping" to automate managerial processes.

Its rather difficult to connect these programs with CAD system and organize automatically exchange of data between them.

The idea of task solving. The connection at program level between projecting processes and managerial processes can provide automate data exchange and high reliability.

The solving of problem. It were developed conception of comprehensive automation, data structure and interconnection between all subsystems using parametrical records and formulas.

A Silver medal of VII Moscow International Innovation and Investment Salon in April 2007 to a creative team of Ivanovo State Textile Academy: professor Victor Kuzmichev, associate professor Natalia Ahmedulova, professor Galina Surikova, associate professor Olga Surikova, Doronina N.V., Gnidenko A.V., Kachanova N.M., Malinskaya A.N. for developing computer line of analysis and synthesis system "IMAGE – CONSTRUCTION – CLOTHES"

History of question and task definition. Creation of qualitative called-for clothes included the solving of tasks as model style, appearance, construction, material, technology of production.

The idea of task solving. Its necessary to develop system for complex analysis and estimation of clothes quality that take into consideration appearance, construction, material, manufacturability.

The solving of problem. Specialist of IGTA create "Computer line of analysis and synthesis system "IMAGE – CONSTRUCTION – CLOTHES" using unlimited possibilities of GRAZIA CAD, operator "IF …", intellectual cyclic processes. This system is organized as knowledge base with algorithms of process execution and application conditions.

The main component of the expert system summarize empirical knowledge in pattern design and accumulate functional interrelation between all input and output parameters of the system "figure – appearance – construction draught" in form of mathematical and optimization models.

Eleventh Gold medal was awarded in September 2007 to a leading Pattern designer of Kyiv Center of Hight Computer Technologies Projecting of clothes "GRAZIA" Sergey Guliay for developing and realization of a new technology of fittingless execution of individual orders in GRAZIA CAD with using of idea of jacket-mockup method.

History of question and task definition. For execution of individual order Master-Fitter (Patern designer) makes several fitting when working by hand. At first Master projects clothes pieces with additions, cut material and tack together mockup of clothes. Then client wear the mockup and Master find a needed position of prototype, makes fitting at differ sections and fix with needles. Then Master tack together mockup accounting results of the first fitting and make a second fitting. Master attaches a right position of the mockup on the figure again and specifies the fitting. Only after that the product is sewed together and Master check the quality of the clothes. An experienced Master notices that there are several typical problem sections at the figure that must be taken into consideration: balance characteristics, slouch of the figure, waist circle, chest, hip circle, hips steepness, location o vent.

It was appear idea to create a jacket-mockup of clothes that doesn’t fix trouble sections and allows to measure them. When client wear jacket-measurer the Master attaches a right position to a jacket and fixed needed values of measurements. Using these information Master design pieces taking into account values of body dimensions and features of the figure. That product can be sewed together without fitting. This technology allow to economize time and material.

The quality of model pieces for individual figure depends not only from precision of measuring body dimension but also from using method of designing. The quality of clothe fit on the figure is defining by jacket-measurer. The values of the body dimensions also measuring using movable control parts.

The idea of task solving. CAD System GRAZIA realizes high computer technology of pattern design ad modelling. Specialist make all creative job – design pieces in base height and size. System make all technical routine job: construct pieces in all needed sizes and heights, reconstruct model by individual figures.

The solving of problem. Specialist in GRAZIA CAD project pieces of Base construction of the cloth by chosen method of designing in base size and height. Base construction is sewed together and checked. System reconstruct pieces of base construction in all sizes and heights, makes measurements and forms table of control measurements. Specialist controls the duplicated pieces also with table of control measurements. It ‘s a very important part of work because the base construction defines main quality characteristics of the product. One base construction can be used for creation of hundred models construction.

On the basis of base construction pattern designer project pieces of the jacket-measurer in the base size and height accounting movable control parts. In the algorithm specialist order measuring values from jacket-measurer as parameters and describe application conditions.

When client wear a jacket-measurer Master define values of needed parameters. The Master order values of these parameters in algorithm and system makes construction of model accounting body dimensions and bearing of the figure.