This subsystem realizes high computer technology of creation new models by any construction methodic EMKOSEV, COTSHL, MULLER, GRINSHPAN… or own original methodic and also modelling using existed models.
This program doesn’t limit specialist, gives wide opportunity for creative work and executes all technical and routine job.
The main point is the display is divided on two windows: Algorithm and Draught. Specialist makes construction by writing his sequence of actions with operators – Algorithm. System executes operators and makes graphical drawing at the Draught.
High computer projecting technology in CAD System GRAZIA providing quick and quality solving all task of Pattern design and modeling:
- Create in one base size any ready-made garment by any construction methodic: EMKOSEV, COTSHL, MULLER, GRINSHPAN… or own original methodic;
- Create in automate mode pieces of all needed sizes with guarantee quality of clothes;
- Precisely and quickly in automate mode create pieces for individual body dimensions accounting bearing;
- Prompt changing pieces in case of model modification as changing material properties, additions, fashion orientation;
- Prompt automatically reconstruction of pieces for another size typology of body dimensions – Europeans, Asians, Americans,Italians etc;
- Automate form table of control measurements and details' specification.
Specialist construct clothes in one size, System quickly and precisely execute all above-listed tasks.
Usually used next sequence of work stages.
Constructor form information base for it’s construction methodic:
- Order size-height parameters. CAD System GRAZIA include table of standard body dimensions. Constructor can use, correct or create a new table of body dimensions.
- Then constructor order formulas for design values, parameters of addition and other constant and variable values.
In Subsystem “Pattern design and modeling” display divide on two parts:
Algorithm window – constructor write design process and modeling actions using operators.
Draught window – system execute operators in algorithm and make corresponding graphical projecting.
All design actions are written with operators. Constructor can make any action using operators. All operators by function divide on 5 groups: Actions with points, Actions with lines, Graphical actions, Actions with details and Structure actions.
During making operator (for example, to make point on the line or to make line) constructor get help of Wizard that write in help string what objects and values it necessary to order to execute operator.
So specialist for creative work only have to know how make its idea in hand and System Wizard helps to realize ideas in CAD System GRAZIA.
CAD System GRAZIA is completely open system that allows creating any garments by any methodic and making modelling.
As distinct from graphical pattern design analytical construction allows to write and realize interdependence of mating details. Changing in one details promote automate correct changing in all corresponding and derivative pieces and sections.
It important to note there 2 kinds of interdependence. First kind of interdependence supposes making length of line in dependence of length of another line (for example construction of sleeve’s armhole depend of length of armhole). Second kind of interdependence supposes take into account not only length of line and also shape of the line. To construct line using length and shape of another line.
Grading is the most important task of pattern design. CAD System GRAZIA solve this task in automate mode by repeating execution of algorithm with corresponding body dimension – automatically reconstruction model in every size and height with corresponding values body dimension. This way is more quickly and more precisely than gradation. In every size-height system construct model and save shape of pieces. Time of grading in CAD System GRAZIA take from several seconds to pair of minutes depends of computer configuration and quantity of details in model.
System guarantee in every size-height interconsistency between construction elements as collar and neck orifice, armhole and sleeve’s armhole etc.
Operator “If …, then …, else …” provide making constructive differences in different sizes. For example, in construction of skirt it may be one or two tucks in depends of value total tuck at back width of the skirt. Using operator “If …, then …, else …” in small sizes it would be one tuck at the back width of the skirt, in big sizes it would be two tucks at the back width of the skirt. System automatically control execution of condition in every size-height to make correctly constructive decision.
The grading is one of the most difficult tasks of pattern design.
Usually used next way of grading:
Constructor makes in one base size pieces for base construction. Then makes model features (move tucks, create articulation lines, relieves, make addition on seam, put assembly notches etc. Grading of pieces for other size and heights is made using gradation – add increments in constructive points for pieces in base size. This way gradation is extensively used in manual operations and in work with most CAD Systems. In work with most CAD SYSTEMS the most spread way is to manually make pieces in base size and then digitization it with digitizer. Then Constructor in CAD SYSTEM make increments in constructive points to get another sizes from base size - gradation.
The gradation induce next problem: The pieces in base sizes have excellent fit, all details are mating and defects are absent. In other sizes pieces has defects, details are not mating and fit is become worse. This worsening is because of extension pieces by gradation. To avoid defects in other sizes it’s necessary to repeat construction process for every size-height as for base one, in other words the grading must be realized by reconstruction instead of gradation. Reconstruction provide saving in all sizes fit, mating details, angle between lines, coincidence of cut lengths etc.
Thus there are two ways of grading: gradation and reconstruction.
Gradation is more simple and quick grading method but it is approximate and not precisely, so the quantity of pieces and goods fit in grading sizes become worsening. Gradation take not a lot of time to make grading but it takes too much time to correct defects in grading sizes, especially in sizes and height that especially smaller or bigger from base size.
Reconstruction is more labour-intensive method of grading than gradation, but the quantity of goods more competitive. CAD System GRAZIA automatically solve task of grading by repeating construction process for every size and height with corresponding parameters of body dimensions.
Usually the direction decides what method of grading must be used. It depends of consumer group that is production manufactures for, selling value and technologic opportunities of manufacture.
Also very important task of pattern design is alteration construction in case of changing properties of material, fashion trend or elimination of fit defects. This task CAD System GRAZIA solve almost in automatic mode by reconstruction model with new parameters. This task is very important because of need to return in the beginning of construction process and make correction in previous calculation and construction.
The ability to return to the previous stages of construction process with saving whole process may be realized only in Analytic CAD System. In Graphic and Parametric systems in case of return in the beginning of construction process it’s necessary to make construction anew again. In Analytic systems the algorithm of construction process is paramount, in graphic and parametric systems the draught is paramount and system automatically write protocol of actions, so in case of changing construction all actions in protocol from the moment of changing would be deleting and specialist have to reconstruct model again.
Cad System GRAZIA allows to realize interdependence in construction, so in case of changing one detail the system automatically make corresponding alteration in all mating, derivative and auxiliary detail in every size. For example, designer change a width of back neck orifice. The system automatically correct all cuts of mating detail as forepart, facing (hide coat-breast), welt.
Very often we can see in construction methodic that on parameter has various value for different sizes. CAD System GRAZIA to set a value or parameter as table. The system automatically for every size would be chooses necessary parameter’s value. For example, the addition for chest has different values in dependence of values’ combination of Chest and Kind of silhouette.
The ability to realize module projecting greatly quicken construction process. Some separate function processes as construction of different details, components – base constructions for various models, kinds of collars, pockets, ways of modelling relieves and tucks, sleeve-armhole – constructor may save as separate module and use it next time with new parameters for creation of new models.
Modules that were created by one constructor may be effectively used by other constructors. These possibilities greatly increase productivity of constructors’ collective and raise process for a new creative level.
Intellectual cycle processes is developed using conditional operator “If …, then …, else …” and operator “Go to mark”. These operators gives facilities to direct construction process to one or another way in dependence of ordered condition, describe and automatically solve logical situations, obtain task’s execution. For example, If real fit by sleeve’s armhole is bigger than value A Then it’s necessary to return back and correct width of sleeve on B. This cycle would be realized till receive needed fit by sleeve’s armhole. These tools open potential in creative activity.
In IVANOVO STATE TEXTILE ACADEMY at Department of construction garment was carry out research dissertation of Surikova O.V. about technological forming corner cuts of details. The results of this research are include in CAD System GRAZIA. This technology provides automate forming corner cuts of detail and essentially simplify this process and make details very technological.
The function of automatically forming corner cuts for details is realized as window with 24 kinds of corner cuts. Constructor only has to choose needed kind of corner cut and system forming this cut in correspondence corner of projecting detail.
Special function Graphic correction simplifies creation of curved lines and allows making any difficult curved line. This function very useful in creation of decorative lines and relieves. Using graphical tools designer correct curved line, system write line’s formula and repeat it in every size.
CAD System GRAZIA has special modeling function that very useful for different modeling methods, removing tuck, making welt, check detail’s mating, order detail properties (class of material, multiplicity, mirror etc).
CAD System GRAZIA gives tools for automate control and correction of mating that greatly increase quantity of garment in every size.
- Details Backpart and Forepart are mating by shoulder line to check mating of armhole.
- Creation of a new common line of the armhole, which than would be divided on two section (for backpart and forepart).
- The section of a new armhole line is copying at the Backpart with correction of shoulder line at the Backpart and Forepart.
Designated correction would be automatically executed in every size and height for ordered range of grading.
In CAD System GRAZIA the task of reconstruction model for individual figure is solving during a minute by repeating construction process for ordered model with individual body dimensions and accounting bearing. This tools very useful for executing individual and corporative orders, Fashion houses, ateliers, entertainment that making custom tailoring for stuff, sport wear for teams etc.
It’s necessary to check preproduction model with table of control measurements. In CAD System GRAZIA the table of control measurements is formed automatically for ordered measurements.
Subsystem “PATTERNS DESIGN AND MODELLING” is very effective for large and small entertainments for producing childish, man’s and woman’s, fur, sport wear, overcoat, head-dresses, rucksack, tents and other any sewing goods.
Nowadays CAD System GRAZIA generalizes experience of specialist from many entertainments, Fashion houses, educational institutions and continue its evolution.